Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
